Travel & Life Digest

Myconos in Autumn

Life has taken us to Myconos this autumn.
We hadn't really taken any time off work during the summer and when an invitation for a wedding in Athens came through the post, we immediately thought of squeezing a weekend in Myconos in there too.
Myconos is all about beach parties, fabulous people, vibrant nightlife and summer sunshine...well yes, but!

We always visit Greece in September, the hoards of tourists are gone and the weather is usually pleasant enough to swim and walk around in your lovely summer dresses and shorts but not so hot that you just want to stay inside locked up, next to the AC.
Believe it or not, we hadn't been to Myconos before, we've always been a bit sceptical about it.
So, what does one do in Myconos in autumn?

We stayed at Ostraco Suites, in Drafaki.
We were pleasantly surprised when the hotel car picked us up at 6 in the morning from the airport and the driver said...
"don't worry about checking in, we have a room waiting for you to rest in. Give reception a call when you are up and we'll transfer your bags to your actual room then." 
That was music to our ears since we had been up for 24 hours, first to go to the office and then catch a flight to Athens with a subsequent one to Myconos.
By the way, for intra-greece flights check out Aegean Air, they're quite good and give you sweeties before taking off, so that your ears won't pop! 

The rooms in Ostraco Suites are all whitewashed and fresh.
Even the smaller room, where we just rested at until our actual room was ready, had marble floors with intricate details and the shower had real pebble floor and polished concrete walls. It came with its' own little courtyard, complete with stone bench and bougainvilleas, I love bougainvilleas so even at 6 in the morning when we arrived, I just had to sit outside, waiting for sunrise...

Our suite was a one bedroom flat really.
The lounge area had wrap-around windows with views over the bay and the little village, a kitchenette and a traditional Cycladic curved bathroom. Two massive built-in sofas could have easily accommodated another two adults.  

Cold Coffee around the hotel pool is part of life, embrace it! 
Ostraco Suites comes with its' own two chapels too! Such a peaceful place to just sit at and gaze into the bay...

Breakfast is served outside, overlooking the pool and comprises of a lovely variety of ham and cheese, numerous freshly baked cakes, breads, fruit and a different traditional pie makes its' appearance every day, too. 

The whole hotel is spread over the side of a hill, with lovely nesting areas for lounging,  yoga and watching the sunset, around every corner!
Keep in mind that they are all outdoors though. They are cosy and offer the perfect spot for relaxation, especially around the pool,  but you might need an alternative spend-time in case you are caught in the one rainy weekend of September, like we did.

For seafood...
try "Kounelas" tavern down in the old part of Myconos town.
It's right behind the Scandinavian Bar, but the fastest way is to be dropped off at the old port, walk along the promenade and turn left into the little streets. It is full of tourists off course, but the staff are polite and helpful and prices not so bad. The main sitting area is up the stairs, with a glass floor looking straight down into the old part of the building.  

Try Prawn Saganaki, it's a great starter because it comes in a red sauce made of peppers and crumbled feta so it's the perfect excuse for bread dipping.
I was also very happy to finally find swordfish again, I just cannot seem to find it either in the shops back in UK, nor in restaurants any more.
On our way out, we saw the wood-burning oven/barbecue, built into the building, almost squished in the narrow street. Who would have imagined that a whole restaurant is fed on time, by such a simple structure?

For a more sophisticated palette...
try Kallita restaurant, in Fresh Hotel.
We discovered it simply by wandering around Kalogera Street.
It's built around a sleek courtyard  with palm trees overlooking your dinner table and even though it was raining when we were there, the two tiny spaces inside were made to feel very cosy and well...fresh! There will be a difficulty when it comes to picking your food though, everything looks great on the menu...from lamb chops to pork belly, to Greek fusion pasta dishes, you won't be disappointed!

On rainy days...
brave the wind that always comes with the rain on the aegean islands and find refuge in one of the cafes in little Venice.
They have an amazing view of the windmills and when the sea is rough the whole landscape is somehow wild, nothing to do with your picture-perfect summer photos of spit-spot celebrities and wannabes. Very raw and real!
There are little balconies and galleried seafront yards, where people were just quietly reading books, gazing occasionally at the windmills when the wind was loud enough to attract their attention...

Petros the Pelican is a local celebrity, wanders around the old port and causes a stir with every appearance! 

We also stumbled across a wonderful art gallery as we were walking down Kalogera Street. A girl seemed to be sitting on the floor of the whitewashed house with her hands extended she real? We had to look twice! That was Rarity Gallery,  where we unexpectedly spent a good 45 minutes chatting to the gallery curator. Every piece of art in this simple Cycladic space was handpicked with the intention to enhance the senses and the perception of space. It felt like having our own little art session, very thankful for the lady's time and dedication!

The boat back to Rafina stops in Andros, maybe we'll spend some time here next time!

We made our way back to Athens on the boat because we couldn't get a flight in time to be back for the wedding. It's a four hour boat ride with two stops first at Tinos island and then at Andros.
I know we all prefer the plane, it's faster and more convenient. But I always get more of a holiday feeling when I visit the Cycladic islands by boat, the sea makes me focus somehow... x

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